Sandalwood in Oriental perfumery: chandan, origin, scent and uses

Sandalwood is one of the great woody materials in Oriental perfumery. Under the name chandan, Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) has a long cultural history in India and provides an essential oil sought after for its soft, warm, creamy, and long-lasting character. Indian sources indicate that more than 90% of the country's historical sandalwood resources are found in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. citeturn0search0turn0search24

1. What is sandalwood?

Santalum album, known as white sandalwood, Indian sandalwood, or chandan, is a small tropical tree from the Santalaceae family. The heartwood is the essential aromatic part: it is this that provides the sandalwood oil used in perfumery. The species is also known for its cultural and religious importance in India. citeturn0search0turn0search28

2. The scent of sandalwood

To the nose, Indian sandalwood is generally associated with a woody, soft, warm, creamy, and slightly balsamic sensation. Its oil is particularly prized for its ability to blend into a composition without harshly dominating other materials.

Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) may present a different profile, with more earthy, terpenic, or smoky facets depending on the material. This comparison serves as a reminder that one must always specify the species and origin when talking about "sandalwood." citeturn0search3

3. How is sandalwood oil obtained?

The essential oil is obtained from the wood, particularly the heartwood, through steam distillation. Technical data from the Institute of Wood Science and Technology indicates that heartwood powder can be distilled and that the oil is rich in santalols, notably alpha-santalol and beta-santalol. citeturn0search6

4. Why is sandalwood so important in Oriental perfumery?

Sandalwood plays several roles: woody base material, rounding agent, binder, and longevity booster. ICFRE publications describe it as an ancient perfumery material and highlight its fixative properties and its ability to blend with many other materials. citeturn0search25turn0search26

5. Sandalwood and Indian traditions

Chandan is deeply linked to Indian culture, particularly to religious practices. The wood and its scented preparations are used in various ritual contexts. This cultural dimension helps explain why sandalwood appears so naturally in the history of attar and Indian perfumes. citeturn0search0turn0search28

In the Kannauj tradition, sandalwood has also played an important role as a carrier for certain attars. To learn more about this process, consult our dossier on Indian attar and the deg-bhapka process.

6. Which materials should sandalwood be paired with?

• Oud: sandalwood can soften and add creaminess to a darker woody accord.
• Rose and jasmine: it creates a soft, warm base for major florals. citeturn0search3
• Vanilla and balsamics: it reinforces a creamy and enveloping sensation.
• Saffron and spices: it provides a woody foundation that can round out their character.
• Incense and resins: it creates a contrast between woody warmth and smoky or resinous facets.

7. Natural sandalwood and sandalwood-type molecules

A modern formula may use natural sandalwood, fractions, or molecules that reproduce certain facets of sandalwood. So-called "sandalwood" molecules are particularly useful for achieving creamy, woody, and highly persistent effects. Therefore, one should not confuse the olfactory name "sandalwood" with the mandatory presence of Santalum album essential oil. Givaudan, for example, describes sandalwood molecules designed to bring character, volume, and substantivity to a composition. citeturn0search4turn0search7

8. A precious material with resource challenges

Indian sandalwood is a resource with high economic and cultural value. Indian forestry organizations highlight the challenges related to its conservation, stand management, and heartwood quality. The choice of origin, supplier, and a traceable supply chain therefore counts just as much as the olfactory profile alone. citeturn0search0turn0search2

9. How to recognize sandalwood in a perfume?

Look for an impression of soft, polished wood, often creamy, warm, and enveloping. Sandalwood can be very discreet: it is sometimes used less to "tell" a spectacular note and more to provide continuity and roundness to the base.

To learn how to distinguish this material from other woods, compare it with oud, vetiver and patchouli.

10. Sandalwood in the Atlas of Materials

Sandalwood completes the family of great woody scents in our Atlas of Materials. It also helps link botany, Indian culture, extraction, attar, and the modern construction of accords.

Key takeaways

Sandalwood is a major woody material in Oriental perfumery. Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) is distinguished by its soft, warm, creamy profile and deep cultural history. Its oil, traditional uses, and modern alternatives help us understand an essential point of perfumery: the same olfactory impression can come from a natural material, an extract, or a molecular construction.

Reference sources

• Institute of Wood Science and Technology / ICFRE, Sandalwood Information System. citeturn0search0turn0search6
• ICFRE, documentation on Santalum album and its importance in perfumery. citeturn0search25turn0search28
• Givaudan, information on Australian sandalwood and sandalwood-type molecules. citeturn0search3turn0search4turn0search7