A fragrance’s ingredients list is not read like an olfactory pyramid. One describes regulatory information about the product’s composition; the other presents olfactory facets intended to help understand its profile.
For a reference perfumery, this distinction is essential: it prevents confusion between note, raw material, molecule and declared ingredient.
INCI: what does it refer to?
In the European Union, cosmetic products must include an ingredients list in accordance with the rules of the Cosmetics Regulation. The European Commission specifies that ingredients are expressed using the common names provided in its glossary, which takes into account, in particular, the INCI nomenclature.
For fragrance compositions, certain components may be grouped under designations such as “parfum” or “aroma”. However, certain fragrance allergens must be listed individually when they exceed the applicable regulatory thresholds.
Why do we sometimes see “Parfum” in the list?
The term Parfum in an ingredients list does not correspond to an olfactory note such as “rose” or “oud”. It refers to the fragrance composition used to give the product its scent.
This explains why the INCI list does not necessarily make it possible to reconstruct the detailed formula of a fragrance. An olfactory pyramid and a regulatory list do not serve the same purpose.
Fragrance allergens: why do some names appear separately?
European regulations require certain fragrance allergens to be listed individually when they are present above defined thresholds. For leave-on products, which fragrances generally include, the European Commission indicates a threshold of 0,001 % for the substances concerned; for rinse-off products, the threshold indicated is 0,01 %.
Since 31 July 2026, cosmetic products placed on the market in the European Union must comply with the new requirements arising from Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. Products placed on the market before this date may, under the conditions laid down by the regulation, continue to be made available until 31 July 2028.
Does seeing an allergen on the label mean that the fragrance is dangerous?
No. The presence of an ingredient in the list does not, by itself, mean that the product is dangerous. Individual labeling notably allows people who are already sensitized to certain substances to identify products that contain them.
A product’s safety depends on the exposure context, concentrations, and applicable regulatory assessment. Therefore, the mere presence of an INCI name should not be turned into an automatic judgment about a fragrance.
INCI list, olfactory pyramid, and formula: three different types of information
| Information | What it helps you understand | What it does not necessarily reveal |
|---|---|---|
| Olfactory pyramid | The announced facets and notes | The complete formula |
| Ingredient list | Ingredients declared according to the applicable rules | The exact recipe and detailed proportions of the fragrance composition |
| The perfumer’s formula | The precise construction of the fragrance | It is generally not made public in its entirety |
How to read a fragrance label in practice
- Locate the product’s ingredient list.
- Identify the fragrance composition when it is declared under an appropriate designation.
- Look for fragrance allergens declared individually.
- Do not try to turn every name into an “olfactory note.”
- Compare the regulatory list with the pyramid only to understand their different roles.
Why this reading is particularly useful for oriental fragrances
Descriptions of oriental fragrances frequently use terms such as oud, musk, amber, saffron, rose, bakhoor, or vanilla. These words may refer to a material, a family of facets, an accord, or simply an olfactory description.
Reading the label therefore helps preserve a useful distinction between what the fragrance is intended to evoke and the regulatory information actually declared.
INCI does not mean “complete formula”
An ingredient list is essential for informing consumers, but it should not be interpreted as a formulation recipe. Certain information relating to a fragrance composition may be grouped according to the applicable labeling rules, while certain components must be identified separately when they reach the specified thresholds.
Key takeaways
The olfactory pyramid describes a perfume; the INCI list provides information about its declared composition according to the applicable rules. The two are complementary but not interchangeable.
For further information, see Note, accord, raw material, molecule: what is the difference in perfumery?, Natural material, isolate, synthetic molecule: how is a scent created in perfumery? and Olfactory accord: definition, construction and difference from a note or a material.
Sources: European Commission, European regulations on cosmetic products and the labeling of fragrance allergens.
Explore the library and perfumes
To continue reading, explore IFRA, regulations and INCI, Perfume safety and The glossary of oriental perfumery.
To discover the corresponding references, find All perfumes in the Parfum Orient store.
Connect this article to the existing clusters
To connect this topic with the selection and catalog section of Parfum Orient, see the authenticity guide and the ingredient guide.
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