Myrrh in oriental perfumery: origin, scent, resin, and uses

Myrrh is one of the great resinous materials in the history of perfumery. In oriental perfumery, it provides a dark, balsamic, dry, and slightly bitter depth that should not be confused with that of frankincense. This material also makes it possible to understand how a plant resin can be transformed into a perfumery material.

What is myrrh?

Myrrh primarily refers to the resinous exudate of certain species of the Commiphora genus, notably Commiphora myrrha. Like frankincense, it belongs to the Burseraceae family and appears as a hardened resin derived from the tree.

The raw material is therefore not "myrrh oil": the resin and the scented materials obtained after processing are two different things. The FAO describes myrrh as a resinous exudation of Commiphora, used in particular in its raw form, distilled, or transformed into extracts for perfume and incense applications.

What does myrrh smell like in perfumery?

Myrrh is generally described as resinous, warm, balsamic, aromatic, and slightly bitter. Its profile may seem darker, drier, or more medicinal than that of frankincense. However, perception depends on the species, origin, preparation, and the material used in the formula.

In an oriental perfume, it can give depth to an amber base, reinforce a resinous structure, bring a dark facet to vanilla, or create a contrast with a more luminous material.

Myrrh and frankincense: what is the difference?

Both materials are resins from trees in the Burseraceae family, but they do not come from the same botanical genus: frankincense comes from Boswellia, while myrrh is mainly associated with Commiphora.

How is myrrh harvested and processed?

The resin is obtained from Commiphora trees and then hardens before being collected. A portion can be used directly as incense material. For perfumery, the resin can also be processed to obtain scented materials suitable for formulation.

Depending on the process, one can obtain an essential oil by distillation or extracts by extraction. The form obtained influences how myrrh expresses itself in a composition.

This distinction aligns with our guide on forms of scented materials and our article dedicated to the extraction of raw materials.

Why is myrrh important in oriental perfumery?

Myrrh belongs to the great family of resinous materials that link perfumery, incense, raw materials, and cultural traditions. It provides a link between the use of resins in rituals and their use in scented compositions.

It naturally sits alongside frankincense, benzoin, labdanum, and other resins studied in our guide to resins, gums, and incense in oriental perfumery.

Myrrh, incense, and bakhoor: do not confuse the categories

A myrrh resin can be burnt as incense material, but "myrrh" refers to the raw material whereas "bakhoor" refers to a scented preparation intended to be burnt. A bakhoor can combine woods, resins, scented oils, and other ingredients: the presence of myrrh is therefore not mandatory.

To understand this difference, see our article Bakhoor, incense, and resins: what are the differences?

How to recognize a mention of myrrh in a perfume description?

A product sheet may mention "myrrh" or use the botanical name of a material. One must then look at the context: the mention may correspond to a natural material, an extract, or an olfactory accord that seeks to reproduce certain facets of myrrh.

An olfactory pyramid, therefore, does not by itself reveal the exact form of the material used nor its proportion in the formula. To go further, consult our article on the difference between note, accord, raw material, and molecule.

Natural myrrh and myrrh accord: what is the difference?

The word "myrrh" in marketing rhetoric does not necessarily mean that an identifiable quantity of natural resin has been incorporated as is. In perfumery, a scent can be built from a natural material, an extract, several materials, or odorant molecules.

This is why one must distinguish between the botanical identity of the material, its extraction form, and its olfactory role in the formula.

Key takeaways

• Myrrh is primarily a resin derived from certain Commiphora species.
• Its profile is generally resinous, balsamic, warm, dry, and slightly bitter.
• It is different from frankincense, even though both materials belong to the Burseraceae family.
• Raw resin, essential oil, and extracts do not produce the exact same olfactory effect.
• In oriental perfumery, myrrh can bring depth, contrast, and character to resinous, amber, or woody accords.
• The mention of "myrrh" in a pyramid is not enough to determine the exact nature of the material used.